Archive for the ‘Cruising Notes’ Category

Croatia – Cruising Notes

Posted: 15 August 2013 by Jim Barden in Cruising Notes

A 6 day yacht charter from Agana / Marina in Southern Croatia, provides a great opportunity to visit some beautiful islands, walk through some stunning towns and eat great food. Marinas (and some town quays) are pretty pricey – £40-£50 a night, but if the weather’s right there are some perfect anchorages providing good shelter for most wind directions. We have just completed the following itinerary – and here are some of our cruising notes :

Viz Island
Viz town has a number of laid moorings along the front. Good shelter from any wind from the South. Showers, water and electric. Not a lot of choices for eating but we recommend NONA DARINKA , set just off the front (two big amphora outside) – friendly, good wine, excellent pizza. Intermittent power supply only added to the atmosphere here! Make sure you take some time to explore this town.

IMG_0810 IMG_0811

St Klement Islands
Lots of inlets and bays here, plus one marina with water taxis over to Hvar. With a light Northely wind we anchored in the Bay Vinogradisce over night. Beautiful aqua water over good holding sand. It gets a bit crowded high season,  so you may prefer stay near the edges and take a line ashore.
Three restaurants ashore and a cocktail bar , only three were open when we were there – eat at TONINO’s restaurant – amazing views from your table back over the bay , great wine, awesome steak.
Toninos
Hvar Island
Strari Grad. This is another facinating town to explore. Tricky parking as the wind blows hard across the town quay all afternoon. Take the advice of the pilot book – ” ” We’re all tucked in by 1430 and had a great afternoon here looking round the towns tiny cobbled streets. Lots of restaurants make it difficult to choose one. Everyone recommends ANTIKA , but we tried Restaurant PINETTA (+385915053672) – nealry the best food of the trip ! try the waiter’s recommendations you will not be disappointed. A beautiful restaurant and stunning food – have a look around – the roof terrace would be a good place to eat.

Pinetta Seafood

Brac Island
Milna. We holed up here for a day and half due to bad weather. Great Church. There are two marinas, the ACI is the more expensive (but more sheltered of the two) , if you have a choice take the laid moorings to the south side (near showers and office) , rather than the town quay – but you will probably be directed to whatever is avaiable. We didn’t have much luck with eating out on the first night – maybe avoid the restaurant DUPINI. Poor food and wine. But for lunch the next day we scored lucky . For service and food (try pizza, amazing salad and black pepper ice cream ) go to GEJATA – can’t remember it’s spelling exactly, but it’s something like that. Almost the first one you come to after the big church heading west.

Milna - Brac

Milna – Brac

IMG_0857
Lucice. Large and reasonable shelter anchorage fro wind from the north and west. Try the resaurant Lucice in the north western corner – owned by the fishermen who cook da fish. There are mooring buoy laid (free if you eat in the restaurant) otherwise about £20 for overnight.

Mainland

Agana (Marina)

This was out base Marina and although the marina bar and restaurant are in a lovely setting the food and service was really poor.  Go over the other side to where the big tower is and find  5 FERELLA – the squid follwed by spit roast suckling pig here was possibly the best food we had on the whole trip.  Get a table by the water and enjoy.

Trogir

Must visit city/town.  Going back in time and getting lost the narrow winding streets of this island citadel.  It rivals Venice in my opinion – not nearly as crowded and food is good quality and better value.   Eat at IDROif you can find it , but there are loads of others.  I would like to go and stay there for a few days

Useful / Essential Publications :

1. Imray Adriatic Pilot – Bestandig and Silvestro
2. 777 Harbours and Anchorages – Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro and Albania ( this is a brilliant book for finding lunch spots )

Advertisements

The Channel Islands provide some challenging and very tidal pilotage along with beautiful coves and bays and scenery ashore.  We take Nomad over there once a year, here’s a brief guide to our usual seven day itinerary.Chan-Isles

From the Solent, I usualy cross to Cherbourg and pick up some good value wine, cheese and meats ready for the islands…

Timing is crucial for making progress west from Cherbourg and then for tackling Alderney race.  Often we try to get the stream to work for us and take us south to the first island stop of  Sark.

Sark

sark003

This imposing fortress island with steep cliffs on all sides has a long and interesting history. There are a few places to anchor but a steep climb up steps or path is required from almost all to gain access to the wild flower meadows and lanes that populate the plateau on top.  There are lots of anchorages, but I prefer to take the moorings at Harve Gosselin if going ahore for an extended period.  There are about a dozen visitors bouys laid in good depth – but do check the fall of tide if you’re close in.  Steep steps and a path lead you to the momument at the top and some spectacular views.

Harve Gosselin

The paths and lanes to the village are about a 20 minute walk.  There you will find a couple of pubs and 2 or 3 places to hire bikes ( this is a great way to see the rest of the island – but is worth booking in advance – Avenue Cycles : +44 (0)1481 832102).   Cycle to Little Sark and try the food at La Sablonnerie – it’s a little bit pricey, but great food served in a beautiful garden.

From Sark,  I often head to Guernsey and St Peter Port  to refill the water tanks,  re-stock and get a decent shower !

Guernsey

The inner Victoria Marina gets full pretty quick in the summer,  so if you want to stay there,  time it so that you arrive just in time to get over the sill which dries 4.2m .  If  it’s full you can stay on the pontoons outside which are not attached to shore.  If you intend to use these near LW,  best to approach by going  round to the east, then north of the life boat from the green buoy to find deeper water.  Alternative is QEII Marina (visitors’ pontoon here is a bit awkward) which also has drying sill or Beaucette which is quite spectacular and has planty of depth!   Loads of good places to eat ashore in St Peter Port – try  La Perla Restaurnant on the front – great value , cheap and tasty and a good three course deal !

From Guernsey and exciting bit of pilotage to Herm – ( pick up a disposable BBQ before you leave Guernsey )

Herm

Herm

From Guernsey try taking the Corbette Passage and Persee Pass between Herm and Jethou.  Plan this in advance and watch out for strong tides carrying you across at the Corbette end.

Herm is largely uninhabited and has two of the best beaches on the the islands – Shell Beach and Belviour Bay.  Although busy with day trippers during the day, they all leave by 5pm with the last ferry back to Guernsey and then, if at anchor , you can have the place to yourself.  A 10 minute walk over the hill takes you to the small hamlet – a pub, shop and reataurant.  But best to stay on the beach and have a BBQ.

image007

Alderney

alderney004

Everyone heads to Braye Harbour , good shelter on the laid moorings but can be a bit rock and roll if you choose to anchor of the beach.  The beach is beautiful (when the sun shines)   A good water taxi operates and gives quick access to the shore.  If you can, visit during Alderney Week  for festivities and entertainment such as music in the quarry and the Birdman of Bray.  Worth the walk up the hill to the village proper and a not too challenging pub crawl

Last time we left here for a night sail home to the backdrop of fireworks from the end of festival celebrations.

 

There are often places available on this trip contact jim@nomadsailing.co.uk for more info or visit the Nomad Website