Croatia – Cruising Notes

Posted: 15 August 2013 by Jim Barden in Cruising Notes

A 6 day yacht charter from Agana / Marina in Southern Croatia, provides a great opportunity to visit some beautiful islands, walk through some stunning towns and eat great food. Marinas (and some town quays) are pretty pricey – £40-£50 a night, but if the weather’s right there are some perfect anchorages providing good shelter for most wind directions. We have just completed the following itinerary – and here are some of our cruising notes :

Viz Island
Viz town has a number of laid moorings along the front. Good shelter from any wind from the South. Showers, water and electric. Not a lot of choices for eating but we recommend NONA DARINKA , set just off the front (two big amphora outside) – friendly, good wine, excellent pizza. Intermittent power supply only added to the atmosphere here! Make sure you take some time to explore this town.

IMG_0810 IMG_0811

St Klement Islands
Lots of inlets and bays here, plus one marina with water taxis over to Hvar. With a light Northely wind we anchored in the Bay Vinogradisce over night. Beautiful aqua water over good holding sand. It gets a bit crowded high season,  so you may prefer stay near the edges and take a line ashore.
Three restaurants ashore and a cocktail bar , only three were open when we were there – eat at TONINO’s restaurant – amazing views from your table back over the bay , great wine, awesome steak.
Toninos
Hvar Island
Strari Grad. This is another facinating town to explore. Tricky parking as the wind blows hard across the town quay all afternoon. Take the advice of the pilot book – ” ” We’re all tucked in by 1430 and had a great afternoon here looking round the towns tiny cobbled streets. Lots of restaurants make it difficult to choose one. Everyone recommends ANTIKA , but we tried Restaurant PINETTA (+385915053672) – nealry the best food of the trip ! try the waiter’s recommendations you will not be disappointed. A beautiful restaurant and stunning food – have a look around – the roof terrace would be a good place to eat.

Pinetta Seafood

Brac Island
Milna. We holed up here for a day and half due to bad weather. Great Church. There are two marinas, the ACI is the more expensive (but more sheltered of the two) , if you have a choice take the laid moorings to the south side (near showers and office) , rather than the town quay – but you will probably be directed to whatever is avaiable. We didn’t have much luck with eating out on the first night – maybe avoid the restaurant DUPINI. Poor food and wine. But for lunch the next day we scored lucky . For service and food (try pizza, amazing salad and black pepper ice cream ) go to GEJATA – can’t remember it’s spelling exactly, but it’s something like that. Almost the first one you come to after the big church heading west.

Milna - Brac

Milna – Brac

IMG_0857
Lucice. Large and reasonable shelter anchorage fro wind from the north and west. Try the resaurant Lucice in the north western corner – owned by the fishermen who cook da fish. There are mooring buoy laid (free if you eat in the restaurant) otherwise about £20 for overnight.

Mainland

Agana (Marina)

This was out base Marina and although the marina bar and restaurant are in a lovely setting the food and service was really poor.  Go over the other side to where the big tower is and find  5 FERELLA – the squid follwed by spit roast suckling pig here was possibly the best food we had on the whole trip.  Get a table by the water and enjoy.

Trogir

Must visit city/town.  Going back in time and getting lost the narrow winding streets of this island citadel.  It rivals Venice in my opinion – not nearly as crowded and food is good quality and better value.   Eat at IDROif you can find it , but there are loads of others.  I would like to go and stay there for a few days

Useful / Essential Publications :

1. Imray Adriatic Pilot – Bestandig and Silvestro
2. 777 Harbours and Anchorages – Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro and Albania ( this is a brilliant book for finding lunch spots )

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